Street Style

Ricky Powell

Ricky Powell invited me to photograph him in his natural habitat in the West Village – I call him the ‘Lenny Bruce of hip hop’ The legendary photographer and ‘Professor of the Rickford Institute’ is an original- born in New York City 50 years ago, he lives the life. His apartment is crazy, stuff spilling off the shelves, sports memorabilia, jazz records, old magazines, well thumbed books, graffiti on the walls, an empty wine bottle covered in photos from Ron Galella, girlie pics, empty champagne bottles, beer bottles, sneakers, photos and film canisters.

Ricky interviewed me last year for Frank Magazine – we were sitting on a park bench in Washington Square Park, that he called ‘his office’ one afternoon, He seemed to know everyone in the park ‘Oh Shit there goes ..’  jumps up and takes their photo with his trusty Minolta AF2 Hi-Matic camera, stops to yell “Shut up!” at some loud teenage girls and comes back to the bench to ask me some more crucial questions. He said he wanted to ‘peep my shit’ which he did in Frank 151 Chapter 43.

Legend has it that he ditched a job selling Frozade ices to go on the ‘Raising Hell’ tour  with the Beastie Boys and Run DMC, he acted like a ‘rascal’ and was immortalized in rhyme with the line, “Homeboy, throw in the towel/Your girl got dicked by Ricky Powell.”

Ricky is the man ! and a pretty good photographer too.

International Center of Photography – my summer course

I am teaching a workshop on Youth Culture, documentary and street photography at the International Center of Photography in NYC this July. Everyone is welcome –  film and digital

I’ve been documenting street style and youth culture ever since I first spotted the ‘Islington Twins’ in the school yard of the college I was teaching at in London back in 1977. My blog is the Archive of Attitude and to my mind street style and youth culture express just that  – it is about the style and attitude (see my photo of ‘Mod Girl London 1976’ above)

Youth culture and street styles are important in the history of photography – photographer’s have been documenting them since August Sander first took photos of the working population in Germany in the late 19th Century, Danny Lyon shot bikers in America in the 1960’s and Jamel Shabazz shot the hip hop kids he saw on the street in New York in the 1980’s. Today photographers like Bill Cunningham at the NY Times and the Satorialist document current fashion on the street.

These days when every face on magazine covers looks ‘perfect’ – not a hair out of place, not a wrinkle – it is even more important to document and appreciate the amazing people we see everyday on the streets.

I shot this photograph of Run DMC and posse on the street where they lived in Queens in 1984.

Occupy Wall Street demonstration 2011

Claude Serieux in Paris 2012.

Chris Horsfield

The new ‘Jocks and Nerds’ magazine is out in London. One of the portraits I shot for this issue is Chris Horsfield. We decided to do a mug shot – he has a strong look and it works.

The mug shot was invented by Allan Pinkerton of  the ‘Pinkerton National Detective Agency’ fame in the 19th century. They used them on on ‘Wanted’ posters in the Wild West. By the 1870s Pinkerton had amassed the largest collection of mug shots in the United States.

Chris Horsfield : “A Rocker since 13, I saw my first Teddy boy in Southend-on-Sea- I was hooked. Had my first first Drape at 14, black with red velvet. Always bought my George Cox ( the only real ) creepers from Victoria Shoes, Southend-on-Sea …. ”

He studied fashion at the Royal College of Art, his college cat-walk show was a Blade Runner inspired collection, he made 3 outfits for Rat Scabies, and has worked for everyone: Ecko, Gas Jeans Northpeak to present day Schott. His fashion icons were always, and remain, Anthony Price, Thierry Mugler, Kid Creole, Hank Williams and Zodiac Mindwarp !

Keith Haring

In 1985 I was working for the New York Daily News Magazine. I got the job to photograph one of my favorite artists Keith Haring whose work I had admired on NYC subway and neighborhood walls.  I went over to his downtown studio one afternoon.

Every bit of the studio was covered in art, cutouts, paintings, drawings, graffiti – it was an amazing place. And there was Keith, a lovely friendly man who happily posed for me for a couple of hours. He gave me a huge signed Free South Africa poster which has pride of place in my studio to this day. Look out for the retrospective at the Brooklyn Museum opening March 16.

The East Village …was just exploding. All kinds of new things were starting. In music, it was the punk and New Wave scenes. There was a migration of artists from all over America to New York. It was completely wild. And we controlled it ourselves” KH in Rolling Stone interview 1989

Paris

I was in Paris in February for an exhibition of my hip hop photographs at La Bellevilloise in the 20th Arrondissement. The city looks beautiful, it does not seem to have changed much since I first went there in the 1960’s.

Aurouze’s rat trap store. In its window hang 21 dead rats, their necks crushed by steel traps. They’ve been there since 1925.

Lovely street market by my metro station in the 20th

The local Communist Party headquarters around the corner.

Rendezvous with great friends Geoff and Linda Halpin.

Back In The Days Paris

At La Bellevilloise in Paris – some very cool people, everyone into ‘Old School’.

And a nice French interview online as well as on TV.

Did I mention that a French journalist called me the ‘Anti Annie Leibovitz’ which is hilarious. Let’s just say I have a simpler way of taking a photo. I met Ms Leibovitz, many years ago in a hotel elevator in Texas. We were both there to shoot the tennis player Martina Navratilova. Annie had six assistants and twenty bags of photo equipment – I had one assistant and two bags  .. I prefer to keep it simple

Quality Mending, the Jam fans & Bob’s Big Boy

In 1936 Bob Wian sold his DeSoto Roadster to start a diner in California The inspiration for the name ‘Bob’s Big Boy’, and model for its mascot, was six year old Richard Woodruff  who walked into the diner as the owner was trying to figure out what to call  his new hamburger. Wian said, “Hello, Big Boy” to the kid. The rest is history. It became a nationwide franchise and in some areas a biker hangout.

The Quality Mending Company on Prince St has a gang of the BBB dolls for sale – each franchise made it’s own doll, some were darker skinned black BBB guys, some were chunkier, some had lighter hair, but they are all have that same grin.

Oliver, the owner of Quality mending Company, has collected some of the best American vintage clothing in NYC. He collaborates with artists decorate the store’s outside wall the on Elizabeth St – I was lucky to have him make a huge mural of my photo of  Jam fans one summer.

Street photography

From 1990 – 1995 I worked on a street portrait project – whenever I had time I took the subway to a different neighborhood with my Hasselblad to take photos of the people and the hood. Last week I saw the  Vivian Maier show at Howard Greenberg Gallery in NYC – she was a nanny that took street portraits in her spare time in Chicago in the 1950’s

The show prompted me to look through my own archive – although my images are only about 20 years old they have a ‘vintage reportage’  feel.  Both of these are shot on 5th Avenue,  the Guardian Angels at a Puerto Rican day parade (above) and Irish girls on St Patricks’s day (below). New York is such a great city to shoot people on the street.

Kendra Morris

On Friday I photographed the singer Kendra Morris. She says she wants to live in an enchanted forest – her east village apartment is just that (see above).

She wrote all the songs on her debut album which is due out on Wax Poetics records in the spring 2012. Check out the video for her single Concrete Waves.

Kendra’s been singing for others her entire life, as a little kid in Florida she sang for her toys, in high school she sang with a gospel troupe (they sang for patients at a mental hospital one time), she sang in the Mall – the girl can really sing – she’s soulful – DJ Premier worked on Concrete Waves mix.

Jose James

This weekend I photographed Jose James on the Bowery – he sings both jazz and hip hop (and has a great barber).  Just back from touring the world with jazz luminary McCoy Tyner, he has recorded with DJ Giles Peterson, Taylor McFerrin, Basement Jaxx and many more –  catch him performing at the Brooklyn Museum on December 15th.