Street Style « Archive of Attitude

Street Style

We Can Be Heroes

In the post punk years around 1980 on there was a turn around in style in the UK. The punks, mods, rockers, skins and 2 Tone kids were still flaunting their looks but something else was happening – people had perhaps grown tired of the ripped T, bin bag, army surplus rebel look and wanted to dress up and look sharp.

Suddenly groups like Blue Rondo a la Turk featuring my friend Christos (on right in my photo above he was wearing a pink Zoot suit! and is still one of the best dressed men to this day), Spandau Ballet, and individuals like Steve Strange (top photo walking in Covent Garden) were paying obsessive attention the way their clothes were made and their suits fit.

They started clubs like The Blitz, The Wag the BeatRoute to play the new music, dance and check out each other’s gear.

Graham Smith, a lad from Edgware in North London, shot the emerging London club scene that rose from Punk’s ashes. Check out his photos in the new book ‘We Can be Heroes‘, with text by Chris Sullivan (on left my photo above). Instead of dealing with the old school publishing industry, in true punk style it is self published.

As for myself, although never too good with an iron, I still managed to pull together an outfit – vintage 50’s American clothing, trousers from PX, even the odd bit of Vivienne Westwood – it was important.

December 5th, 2011

E Pellicci Cafe London

E Pellicci is one of the oldest cafes in London. ‘Nev’ Pellicci’s family came from Tuscany and bought the cafe at the turn of the last century. The Kray brothers used to live around the corner. Nev’s father, who started serving them when they were children, said ” They were very respectful, charming. If my mother was behind the counter and someone swore they would ask him to show some respect”

Marcus Ross. publisher of Jocks and Nerds Magazine, took me there for a great lunch. The English breakfast and bread and butter pudding made by Mrs Pellicci herself were just right.

And there is this clock at Bethnal Green Tube station (along with the CCTV)

November 25th, 2011

East LA Mexican Gang HM

Dashwood Books has published a monograph, small edition, of my photo essay on the East LA Mexican gang El Hoyo Maravilla. I spent a summer in the 1980’s photographing the gang. It was a very hot and I remember the constant buzz of the LAPD helicopters hovering over the area. ‘The Saint’ (above) had tattooed his gang name on his chest.

The gang members introduced me to their families and showed me the barrio. I was probably the first British person they had ever met

LA Happy Loca, LA Smiler Loca and LA Chrissy Loca (above) had great style, they would shave their eyebrows and draw a line high over the eye.

November 11th, 2011

George Clinton & Bootsy Collins at the Apollo

Last night at the Apollo in Harlem George Clinton aka ‘Dr Funkenstein’ founder of Parliament Funkadelic was honored with an all star tribute featuring Bootsy Collins, Sheila E, Bernie Worrell, Nona Hendryx, Vernon Reid, Ray Chew, Paul Shaffer (who according to a source was considering wearing a diaper, in honor of Gary Shider, but ended up sporting just the diaper pin) and many more.

Bootsy Collins celebrated his 60th birthday by taking a walk across the audience.

Bootsy’s gorgeous wife Patti wearing peace sign eye wear

Bernie Worrell ‘s solo was beautiful. An all around ‘moog’ genius who studied at Juilliard, he has been compared to Beethoven, Jimi Hendrix and Duke Ellington

Cornell West jumped onstage to share the love. Obviously ‘The Funk Will never Die’.

October 26th, 2011

Dexy’s Midnight Runners & GI Blythe

The posse rides again – I shot Dexy’s Midnight Runners at the Elephant and Castle shopping centre in London in 1981 (above). Some members of the original band brought together by Geoff Blythe just reunited to record at Blokhed Studio on Long Island. I just photographed the new band, G I Blythe (below) for their new CD which comes out Jan 12th 2012. Geoff played with Geno Washington and the Ram Jam Band – which is one of the first albums I ever bought.

October 24th, 2011

Motor Cycle Clubs New York

The New York chapters of the American Brotherhood, Dirty Ryderz, Condemned Few, Hells Angels, Unforgiven, Trashed, Lost Boys motor cycle clubs had a party on Bond and Bowery last Sunday. So many gorgeous bikes lined up on Bowery and surrounding streets.

October 20th, 2011

125th Street and Lenox

Waiting for the downtown train after midnight at 125th Street and Lenox in Harlem.

btw don’t miss photographer Bruce Davidson’s show of 1980’s subway photos at Aperture

October 20th, 2011

Steve Jobs

Steve Jobs passed away last week. This art piece featuring a young and older Steve Jobs mysteriously appeared overnight on Bond Street NYC. The artist Scott VanderVoort, seen below, lives in the neighborhood and says:

‘The project is a little daily reminder how creative and special life can be – I couldn’t have applied a more fitting and honorable icon than Steve Jobs who also lives with in our context but is not always seen from every angle or point in time.’

October 11th, 2011

Laurel Aitken

Black culture had a big influence on the punk and skinhead scenes in the UK. British youth loved Soul, Rhythm & Blues, Reggae and Ska and combined the dress styles of the musicians with their Dr Marten boots, braces (suspenders), Harrington jackets and loafers.

I photographed Laurel Aitken (above) at home in Leicester in 1980. He was known as the ‘Godfather of Ska’ and had moved to England from Jamaica in 1960. His flat reflected his personality, everything from the Mona Lisa and family photos to his immigration permit was on display.

This week acurator features my photographs of that scene.

October 6th, 2011

The Islington Twins Style

I first met The Islington Twins, Chuka and Dubem Okonkwo, in 1977 when they were attending the college in Clerkenwell where I was teaching photography. I spotted them one lunchtime leaning against a wall in the school yard impeccably dressed in identical parkas, pork pie hats, Sta-Prest trousers, Frank Wright loafers and sunglasses, finishing each other’s sentences, and asked if I could photograph them. That photo ran full page in The Face mag in 1980 – soon after they became local celebs, hosting ‘The Bar’ an informal gathering which took place daily by ‘the bar’ the yellow and black horizontal pole that stopped cars from entering the road to Islington tube station. I discovered we lived on the same street in Highbury and later I photographed them again for The Face in perfect ‘Rude Boy’ style, Fred Perry shirts, Loafers, Harrington jackets, matching sunglasses and black berets, on our street.

Those clothes are still relevant today Fred Perry is launching a line designed by Amy Winehouse Brands like Kangol are making new ‘pork pie’ and ‘beret’ styles. Loafers are still popular, as is the skinny trousers and sunglasses look, a requisite for every hipster.

The Autumn/Winter issue of British GQ Style a bi-annual magazine features my original photo of the ‘Rude Boys’ and the Twins’ who are still stylin’ today. They are wearing Dunhill shirts, Lock & Co Hats, and Trickers brogues, classic brands.

September 20th, 2011