Youth Culture

Motorhead

Just made a print of this photo I shot of Motorhead in 1981. I remember Lemmy offering me some speed on the end of a screwdriver after I took the shot. Before he started Motorhead, Lemmy was in the band Hawkwind and worked as a roadie for the Jimmy Hendrix Experience.

125th Street and Lenox

Waiting for the downtown train after midnight at 125th Street and Lenox in Harlem.

btw don’t miss photographer Bruce Davidson’s show of 1980’s subway photos at Aperture

Laurel Aitken

Black culture had a big influence on the punk and skinhead scenes in the UK. British youth loved Soul, Rhythm & Blues, Reggae and Ska and combined the dress styles of the musicians with their Dr Marten boots, braces (suspenders), Harrington jackets and loafers.

I photographed Laurel Aitken (above) at home in Leicester in 1980. He was known as the ‘Godfather of Ska’ and had moved to England from Jamaica in 1960. His flat reflected his personality, everything from the Mona Lisa and family photos to his immigration permit was on display.

This week  acurator features my photographs of that scene.

Occupy Wall Street

On Friday a huge crowd gathered at Liberty Plaza a few blocks from Wall Street. The demonstrators, organized by the ‘Occupy Wall Street’ group, say  ‘Our system is broken … 25 million are unemployed .. corporations, politicians, media, the police have failed as institutions’

A large police contingent tried to control the crowd that included everyone from students and trade unions to Grannies for Peace. In at an atmosphere that was part politics and part ‘Woostock’ there was music, dancing, a library, media centre, free rolled cigarettes, food and art supplies to make banners.

On Saturday, day 14, of the protest, they published and distributed a free newspaper ‘The Occupied Wall Street Journal’ . In the afternoon about 500 people from the Occupy Wall Street protest movement were arrested on New York City’s Brooklyn Bridge,

The Islington Twins Style

I first met The Islington Twins,  Chuka and Dubem Okonkwo, in 1977 when they were attending the college in Clerkenwell where I was teaching photography. I spotted them one lunchtime leaning against a wall in the school yard impeccably dressed in identical parkas, pork pie hats, Sta-Prest trousers, Frank Wright loafers and sunglasses, finishing each other’s sentences, and asked if I could photograph them. That photo ran full page in The Face mag in 1980 – soon after they became local celebs, hosting ‘The Bar’ an informal gathering which took place daily by ‘the bar’ the yellow and black horizontal pole that stopped cars from entering the road to Islington tube station.  I discovered we lived on the same street in Highbury and later I photographed them again for The Face in perfect ‘Rude Boy’ style, Fred Perry shirts, Loafers, Harrington jackets, matching sunglasses and black berets, on our street.

Those clothes are still relevant today Fred Perry is launching a line designed by Amy Winehouse   Brands like Kangol are making new ‘pork pie’ and ‘beret’ styles. Loafers are still popular, as is the skinny trousers and sunglasses look, a requisite for every hipster.

The Autumn/Winter issue of  British GQ Style a bi-annual magazine features my original photo of the ‘Rude Boys’ and the Twins’  who are still stylin’ today. They are wearing Dunhill shirts, Lock & Co Hats, and Trickers brogues, classic brands.

Def Jam, LL Cool J, Rick Rubin

Just got the book  ‘Def Jam Recordings: The First 25 Years of the Last Great Record Label‘.  I’ve known the author, Bill Adler, since he walked into my studio in 1985 with a young LL Cool J for LL’s first promo shot. The book’s is designed by brilliant art director and artist Cey Adams.

To compare Def Jam to Motown seems right to me – I grew up with Motown it changed my life – just as Def Jam introduced hip-hop, a new kind of music and lifestyle to the 80’s generation.

I remember meeting Lyor Cohen, who started Rush, the management division of Def Jam, in his scrappy office on Broadway back before Def Jam was on Elisabeth St. He was yelling at someone on the phone, smoking a fat cigar, sneaker clad feet on his desk.

Rick Rubin,co-founder of Def Jam, was working with the Beastie Boys when I took this photo for Rolling Stone around that time – I love his style -beyond cool – powder blue puffy coat, sunglasses, holding a drink from Blimpie’s sandwich shop and a gun

Bleech sisters

The Bleech sisters : singer guitarist Jen and bassist Katherine  lounging in the pub dressing room off the Pentonville Road during a Kangol shoot

NWA

I shot this photo of NWA outside their recording studio Torrance, CA in 1990 for a book called ‘Rap Portraits & Lyrics of a Generation of Black Rockers’. The co author and writer was my friend Bill Adler.

The photo will be in a museum exhibit in New Hampshire opening in the fall.  Asked to record an audio description for the exhibit – I described the shot as being of a ‘band called NWA aka Niggaz With Attitude who had released a song called ‘Fuck tha Police ..’ and tell the story of how I flagged down a. LAPD cop car to get the photo.

In these politically conscious times I have been asked to remove the ‘N’ and the ‘F’ word from my audio – ‘in an effort to avoid potentially making visitors feel uncomfortable’ ,  and re-record without identifying what NWA stands for, explaining the song rather than provide the title.

That seems to miss the point of NWA’s documentary realism of the song and the album  ‘Straight Outta Compton’. I somehow don’t think Eazy E would have approved. The song is one of Rolling Stones’ 500 Best of all Times.

Arkitip Newspaper

Arkitip produced a newspaper of my photography – black in white on 22 x 11″, broadsheet newsprint, a limited edition of 1000, packaged in re-sealable bag. It is available at Project Space in LA and also from me for $7.50. Arkitip made a lovely movie directed by Felipe Lima of the newspaper production http://vimeo.com/4393048arkitip makes a newspaper

Dr Martens

Everyone from the Clash to the Sex Pistols bought their Dr Marten boots at Holts. Located around the corner from Camden tube station it was the place for London punks, mods and skinheads  to buy footwear.  Now called The British Boot Company it is still owned by the same family and looks just as it always did – piles of shoe boxes, boots signed by Madness and other local bands hanging over the counter, band flyers on the wall and great service.

Years later I shot the Brazilian Girls outside Nublu on Ave C for Dr Marten -Sabina Sciubba and the band had their own personal style which fit perfectly with the classic boots.