Street Style

Style Wars 2

Style Wars 2 is a homage to Henry Chalfont’s 1983 movie Style Wars. The directors Velli and Amos who hail from Slovenia and Switzerland say when they saw Style Wars for the first time they fell in love with the movie and the artists : “We watched it so many times we were quoting it constantly – it started getting bigger and bigger.The artists were our idols. Then we made the movie with our pocket money. It took us five years”

Devi (above) is a contemporary graffiti artist who represents the artist Skeme from the original movie.

It is a mystery who’ bombed’  the train painted with the name ‘Style Wars’ we see in ‘SW2” Devi says it wasn’t him but we think he may be undercover …. In any case SW2 is a hilarious tribute to the original.

Graffiti : ‘The uninvited appropriation of public space. The public expression of an individual for others to enjoy’

Ben Sherman

A shoot for Ben Sherman at The Box in NYC. The three British bands Duologue, Morning Parade and Prides were dressed by Ben Sherman. The event, part of CMJ, was presented by  Her Majesty’s Government no less

The Go Hard Boyz

In 1999 Shea Evans and Don Villnueva, both Harlem dirt bike ‘warriors’, decided to form the movement they called the Go Hard Boyz (GHB). The GHB quickly grew and now has members all over the world – dirt bike and ATV riders and extreme sports specialists  – living a lifestyle in urban communities and rural suburbs Their unique riding style and attitude has spread far and wide The logo a mask with a backward baseball cap represents ‘their mantra “Do It With Style’ which is how they ride. Dirt bike riding is illegal in NYC and riders often get harassed and chased by the NYPD,

One summer afternoon I met Shea in Harlem – he introduced me to some of the GHB posse – they seemed like a family (above GHB on the stoop in Harlem).  Shea took me me to the Bronx to take photos of the GHB, we rode in the flat bed  of his cousin’s F150 pick up truck on the Bruckner expressway shooting the Go Hard Boyz doing wheelies, showing their skills through Harlem and the Bronx on a hot summers day. Shea tells me “It’s Bigger than Bikes”.

GHB riding on the Bruckner Expressway, the Bronx

Bike Life

Riding in the Bronx

Youngster riding in the Bronx in front of Cope mural

GHB posse on 158th Street Harlem

Brooklyn Girls Fight Club

One night I went to photograph the illegal girl fight scene in Brownsville.Legendary fighters from Mike Tyson to Riddick Bowe all grew up in the Brownsville public housing projects like Marcus Garvey and Tilden.

The girl fights are organized by the local ‘boys from the hood’ and publicized by word of mouth, the location is kept secret up to the day of the fight. Held in a huge windowless garage on a dark industrial street, pit bulls chained up in the back room, a boxing ring assembled in the middle of the space, security guards searching everyone as they come in.  The place is jam packed, people of all ages, folks with babies, local youth, and the girls who are going to fight, some as young as 14 years old. There is no admission charge and the fighters are paid with proceeds from gambling on the fights.

The brawlers are recruited from the street, they fight at the club to further establish their rep in the neighborhood and to get a shot at the prize money.The girls have to fight hard or no one gets paid, the winner gets $1000. The rules are “No grabbing. No kicking. No scratching. No hair pulling. No biting. Three rounds. Ninety seconds a round.”.

‘Boys from the hood’ take bets on the fight

Girls fight and the crowd goes crazy

Gold caps

In 1986 Sleeping Bag records asked me to photograph Just-Ice (above) for the cover of his new album ‘Kool & Deadly. Rumor had it that Just Ice had recently beaten a murder rap in Washington DC and was an all all around dangerous dude. Born in Brooklyn he was was one of the first MC’s to use a Ragga/Hip Hop style.

The photo shoot went well and we ended up going across the street to the Time Cafe for Long Island Ice Teas and snacks. Just-Ice neatly removed his gold caps, folded them in a napkin and stashed them in his pocket before eating the tortilla chips.

Gold Caps or Grills were all the rage in the 80’s –  a few weeks before I had filmed gold teeth being made and fitted at  Eddie’s in Brooklyn at the  Fulton Mall for ‘Slammin’ a VHS hip hop magazine.

A week or two after my shoot with Just-Ice, he popped by my studio to show me the little kitten he had adopted – he named him ‘Money Clip’.

Louis Mendes Street Photographer

I  recently spent the morning with iconic street photographer Louis Mendes and his biographer Ray We met for an early breakfast in Harlem at his favorite tiny soul food diner.We walked around the neighborhood chatting and taking photos Then we went to his home in a converted old hotel by Times Square His room is stacked with photo books, old cameras, boxes of flash bulbs, photos cover the walls.

He used to photograph at nightclubs and has probably shot every one, the famous and not so famous  He takes just one Polaroid which he sells to the subject He never thought to take one for himself

“”I just photograph people, I stand outside and wait for them to come to me. I give them a set price for a Polaroid photo if I need  to buy a coffee or an extraordinary price if I need to fly away”

The idea that he is a documentary photographer seems strange to him He was just taking photographs of people for ‘coffee money’

Now 80 years old Louis can be found outside  B&H Photo, Adorama or at an event at BAM, always impeccably dressed, still taking polaroid portraits – have him take your photo.

Kangol

In 2012 I was in Manchester shooting bands for  the 2012 Kangol catalog. This summer I shot another campaign for Kangol at the Governor’s Ball Music Festival on Governor’s Island. The weather had been unusually rainy, we  had to carry the models across a sea of mud to shoot in front of the bands (above). Kangol had graffiti artists Ian’Alone’ and Ellis ‘Net’  decorating hats (below) and a British double decker bus parked on site. After the shoot we caught the headliner Kanye’s show. Back in the day many of the hip hop artists I shot wore  Kangol everyone from LL Cool J to the Fearless Four. Musicians have rocked those hats for years . They are still stylin’

Jamel Shabazz & Charlie Ahearn

Charlie Ahearn’s new documentary about Jamel Shabazz is showing at BAM on August 1st and 2nd

The documentary took 10 years to make, it was a a  test of wills, a magnificent struggle between the two creatives: Jamel the brilliant street photographer and Charlie, the veteran film maker who’s movie ‘Wild Style’ which came out in 1983 featured Lee Quinones (another artist who perhaps preferred to remain on the shooting side of the camera – don’t we all?)

I was privileged to see an early edit of the movie last year  – it is not to be missed  – there will be panels featuring Charlie, Jamel, Fab 5 Freddie, Bobbito, Sharp and Dave Chino.

Shirt King Phade

Ed, aka Shirt King Phade came round to give me his book today. He had some jackets he had painted for a friend’s daughter in his bag. Ed started as a graffiti artist and because of his ‘love of the aerosol’ learned how to use an airbrush and put his art onto clothing.

“I had a shop in Jamiaca Queens that was just dedicated to airbrush art.  All the rappers would come around, each day you never knew who would pop up –  like one day LL Cool J would be there, or Big Daddy Kane, EPMD came all the way from Long Island. They tended to look at me and my team as ‘outfitters’ we weren’t tailors but we were able to put their dreams on their clothes”

Sweet T and Jazzy Joyce wearing a Shirt King sweater NYC 1987

5 Pointz

5 Pointz is old school New York – a living changing graffiti museum in Long Island City. Every spare spaces, walls, street lights, doors, dumpsters is covered by art made by legends of the graff world.

On the side streets guys are cleaning the donut carts that serve Wall st types downtown in the morning – oblivious to their sourroundings as they fill trash bags with the last of the unsold donuts  and cofee grounds, and crush the kosher donut company carboard boxes – french and spanish rap music is blaring,  the trains are rattling overhead.

5 Pointz is a hub for graffiti artists from around the world, constantly changing and  also honoring the legends passed like Dondi White.

Scheduled to be demolished to make way for condominiums – please sign a petition to preserve this icon of NYC

Update November 24th 2013 : Early Tuesday, under the cover of night, painters quietly blanketed much of the walls of 5Pointz with whitewash, erasing the work of hundreds and seemingly putting the final nail in the long battle between the building’s owners, who plan to erect luxury apartments, and the artists who fought to save it.

“This is the biggest rag and disrespect in the history of graffiti,” said a teary-eyed Marie Cecile Flaguel, a spokeswoman for the group behind 5Pointz, which sprang like a rainbow from the gray sidewalks near Jackson Avenue in Long Island City. “He’s painted over the work of at least 1,500 artists.”