Portraits

Made in New York- the 1980’s

Inspired by Penguin paperbacks, fanzines and artist Edward Ruscha’s series, I decided to self publish these small books in a limited edition featuring mostly unseen photographs from my archives of the times.  Order them from me directly or get them at Bookmarc and Dashwood. The third book ‘Made in New York -the 1980’s’ is just out.

Kosmo Vinyl West Ham

I first met Kosmo Vinyl (above) at an Ian Dury concert in Aylesbury in 1980, I was taking photos for Melody Maker. Kosmo was always a stylish lad – he had started out at Stiff Records, hoping to become a roadie, but as he tells me his ” big mouth soon put at end to that” and he became Ian Dury’s Press Agent working very closely together on pretty much everything to do with him and The Blockheads, except for money – “neither of us had any interest in it”  Later he moved to the Clash camp where he did all sorts of things : Spokesperson, Management, MC, Barber and lots more over time.

Ian Dury (above) Aylesbury 1980 during the ‘Sex and Drugs and Rock and Roll’ days

Now over 30 years later we both live in New York City – and I am taking a portrait of him for his blog which is all about the ‘Hammers’ – Kosmo is a life long West Ham fan and follows the team religiously. He makes collages after each game and posts the results on his blog ‘Is Saitch Yer Daddy’ Trials, Tribulations and Triumphs of being 3,473 Miles from Upton Park and West Ham United. This results for theis last game with Manchester United on Thursday Jan 17 were a bit of a disappointment – see below. But it was nice to see Kosmo – stylish as ever – and have a chat about the old days over a cup of tea.

Jose James

I shot Jose James‘ CD cover earlier this year – now his amazing song ‘Trouble’ is Single of the Week on i-tunes. The song, which features ‘James’ immeasurably cool crooning ‘ and pianist Robert Glasper, seems to be a FREE download – get to it!

Sean O’Pry

A few weeks ago I was asked to photograph a guy called Sean O’Pry. Not knowing who Sean was, I discovered that he is the world’s top male model. Scouted in 2006 from his prom photos on My Space by Nolé Marin and represented by VNY he has been the face of Calvin Klein, Georgio Armani, Versace, H&M, Marc Jacobs, Dolce & Gabbana and Zara amongst others. On the day of the shoot the fashion editor appeared with racks of clothing and maybe 40 pairs of shoes . Sean arrived shortly after and had breakfast of Red Bull and an egg sandwich from the local deli – he was tired, told me he’s been working for 4 months straight.  Sean is from Kennesaw Georgia – he has a kind of James Dean look, likes American muscle cars, boxing, drawing, he’s giving up smoking any minute –  he is really cool, easy going and great model with lots of the right attitude. We took photos under the Williamsburg Bridge and around the ‘hood – I wanted to give the shoot a ‘rock n roll style’ look, not too ‘fashion’ to reflect the clothes and Sean’s character.

La Grande ZaZa

I just photographed the band ‘La Grande ZaZa‘ in my cousin’s backyard in Montpelier. They are an eclectic mix accordion, stand up bass, clarinet, guitar, drums and singers. Trés Francais – summer, grapes on the vine, few glasses of wine ..

Coney Island on the 4th July

Coney Island on the 4th of July – reminds me of why I love New York. We live in a city on the ocean, take the subway to the beach, folks from all over the world out on a sweltering summer day, hot dogs, beer, cotton candy, roller coaster, music blasting from radios … ‘Hot Fun in the Summertime’ (Sly Stone)

The Situationist

Today I met Jaqueline de Jong, she is a Dutch artist and was the editor of ‘The Situationist Times’ 1962-67. The Situationists were a huge influence on the likes of Malcolm McLaren and Jamie Ried and according to the ‘Professor of Punk’ Vivien Goldman the whole Sex Pistols phenomenon was a ‘Situationist’ prank.

International Center of Photography – my summer course

I am teaching a workshop on Youth Culture, documentary and street photography at the International Center of Photography in NYC this July. Everyone is welcome –  film and digital

I’ve been documenting street style and youth culture ever since I first spotted the ‘Islington Twins’ in the school yard of the college I was teaching at in London back in 1977. My blog is the Archive of Attitude and to my mind street style and youth culture express just that  – it is about the style and attitude (see my photo of ‘Mod Girl London 1976’ above)

Youth culture and street styles are important in the history of photography – photographer’s have been documenting them since August Sander first took photos of the working population in Germany in the late 19th Century, Danny Lyon shot bikers in America in the 1960’s and Jamel Shabazz shot the hip hop kids he saw on the street in New York in the 1980’s. Today photographers like Bill Cunningham at the NY Times and the Satorialist document current fashion on the street.

These days when every face on magazine covers looks ‘perfect’ – not a hair out of place, not a wrinkle – it is even more important to document and appreciate the amazing people we see everyday on the streets.

I shot this photograph of Run DMC and posse on the street where they lived in Queens in 1984.

Occupy Wall Street demonstration 2011

Claude Serieux in Paris 2012.

Chris Horsfield

The new ‘Jocks and Nerds’ magazine is out in London. One of the portraits I shot for this issue is Chris Horsfield. We decided to do a mug shot – he has a strong look and it works.

The mug shot was invented by Allan Pinkerton of  the ‘Pinkerton National Detective Agency’ fame in the 19th century. They used them on on ‘Wanted’ posters in the Wild West. By the 1870s Pinkerton had amassed the largest collection of mug shots in the United States.

Chris Horsfield : “A Rocker since 13, I saw my first Teddy boy in Southend-on-Sea- I was hooked. Had my first first Drape at 14, black with red velvet. Always bought my George Cox ( the only real ) creepers from Victoria Shoes, Southend-on-Sea …. ”

He studied fashion at the Royal College of Art, his college cat-walk show was a Blade Runner inspired collection, he made 3 outfits for Rat Scabies, and has worked for everyone: Ecko, Gas Jeans Northpeak to present day Schott. His fashion icons were always, and remain, Anthony Price, Thierry Mugler, Kid Creole, Hank Williams and Zodiac Mindwarp !

So Percussion and Michael Brown

Photographing classical musicians is just as challenging as photographing any other genre of musicians.

For instance, I went to shoot So Percussion at their studio in Brooklyn. The place was literally packed from floor to ceiling with things to make noise with as well as slide projectors, computers, paintings by friends, balloons, wires everywhere snaking around my feet. A truly amazing place but difficult to light and move around in. Then they played me their new composition – so brilliant it brought tears to my eyes. And I had to shoot them as they rehearsed – a very intense day. That is my third or maybe fourth photo shoot for them and each time they pull another surprising idea out of their heads . I mean they play the electric toothbrush! amongst other noise making things.

A couple of weeks later I went to shoot the brilliant pianist Michael Brown at Julliard. We were shown to a truly enormous rehearsal space empty except for one piano in a far corner. How to express the passion of the man’s playing? Yes he plays piano like no one I have ever heard. Michael was wearing a great suit, he’s handsome,  his hands are beautiful and the pattern on the sound walls somehow makes the photo look very modern and yet almost retro cool. The image we shot is on the poster for his concert at Carnegie Hall on April 10th, he will be playing one of his own compositions as well as some Beethoven Debussy et al.